Getting a mortgage on commission, gig or bonus income
Your pay is real. The problem is that lenders disagree, sometimes dramatically, about how much of it they will count — and a decline at one bank tells you almost nothing about the others.
- Commission, bonus, tips, rideshare and contract income all qualify somewhere
- Most lenders average two years — but how they average it varies
- One bank's decline is not the market's answer
- Programs exist for shorter histories and for bruised credit
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The real problem is averaging, not eligibility
Variable income is not a disqualifier. Plenty of people buy homes in Toronto on commission, bonus, tips, rideshare earnings or contract work. What catches people out is how much of that income a lender agrees to use.
The general principle is that lenders want to see a track record, because this year's good year is not evidence on its own. In practice that usually means two years of history, averaged — so a strong recent year gets pulled down by a weaker prior one. If your income is climbing, averaging works against you, and that single mechanic is the reason most variable-income borrowers qualify for less than they expect.
Beyond that shared principle, treatment diverges sharply between lenders. Some will average and use the full figure. Some apply a discount to the variable portion. Some will count a bonus only if it is contractual rather than discretionary. Some want the income in the same line of work; others care only about the deposits.
The same borrower, same income, same documents can be approved comfortably at one lender and declined at another, purely on methodology. A decline is frequently a statement about that lender's rules, not about you.
That is the whole argument for not walking into a single branch and accepting their answer as the market's answer.
How different income types get read
These are the broad patterns. The specifics vary by lender, which is exactly the point.
Commission income
Generally averaged over two years from your tax documents. If commission is most of your pay, expect lenders to look at the trend as well as the average — a declining trend gets treated more cautiously than a rising one, which is the reverse of how it feels to you.
Bonus income
The key question is whether it is contractual or discretionary. A bonus written into your employment agreement with a consistent history is far easier to use than one described as at the employer's discretion, even where the amount has been reliable. Get the wording of your offer letter out before you apply.
Rideshare and delivery earnings
Treated as self-employment, because that is what it is — you are a contractor, not an employee. That means tax returns rather than pay stubs, and your net income after expenses is what most lenders will work from. Claiming heavy vehicle and mileage expenses lowers your tax bill and lowers your mortgage at the same time. That trade-off is worth planning two years ahead of a purchase.
Tips and gratuities
Usable where they are declared. Undeclared tips cannot be used, no matter how consistent, because there is no document that evidences them. Declared tips showing on your tax return are income like any other.
Contract and T4A work
Sits between employment and self-employment, and lenders differ on which box to put you in. A long relationship with one payer, renewed repeatedly, reads better than scattered short engagements.
Part-time and second jobs
Frequently usable with enough history, which commonly means two years in the role. A second job you started three months ago is usually not counted yet, which surprises people who are relying on it.
Why your tax return is the whole conversation
For anything self-employed — and rideshare, delivery and most contract work is self-employed — your mortgage is built on your filed tax returns, not on your gross receipts or your bank balance.
That creates a tension nobody warns people about. Good accounting minimises your taxable income. Mortgage qualification maximises it. The write-offs that made last April comfortable are the same write-offs that shrink what you can borrow this year, and you cannot have both.
There is no trick here and I will not pretend otherwise. What there is, is planning: if a purchase is two years out, that is the window in which the decision about how aggressively to write off actually matters. Deciding it the month before you apply is too late.
Some lenders work differently — using business bank statement deposits, or adding back certain deductions, rather than reading the bottom line of your return. Those programs genuinely exist and they are frequently the right answer for a self-employed buyer. They are also not what a branch will lead with. More on this on the self-employed mortgages page.
One thing that is not negotiable: your returns need to be filed and your taxes paid. Outstanding CRA balances are a hard obstacle, because CRA can register against your property. If that is your situation it is solvable, and it is the first thing to deal with rather than the last.
What to gather before you apply
Having this ready is the difference between a clean approval and a file that drags for weeks.
- Two years of tax documentsT1 Generals with the complete statements, plus your Notices of Assessment. The NOA matters most — it is CRA confirming what you actually declared.
- Proof nothing is owed to CRAA statement of account showing a zero balance, or a payment arrangement in good standing.
- Your employment paperwork, if you have an employerOffer letter or employment agreement, recent pay stubs, and a letter of employment. For bonus income, the clause describing how the bonus works is the important page.
- Business records, if you are a contractorBusiness bank statements, invoices, your HST registration if you have one, and financial statements if your accountant prepares them.
- Down payment historyAround 90 days of statements for the account holding the funds, with anything transferred in documented. See down payment rules.
- An honest view of your creditYou can pull your own report without affecting your score. Better to find the error now than during an application.
If the answer at the bank was no
It is worth understanding what a decline usually means, because people take it as a verdict on themselves and it rarely is.
A bank operates one set of rules. If your income shape does not fit those rules — not enough history, the wrong kind of bonus, net income too low after write-offs — their system says no, and the person delivering that answer has no ability to look elsewhere. Which is not a criticism of them. It is a structural limit of working at one lender, and I say that having spent years doing exactly that at CIBC and Scotiabank.
The broker channel reaches lenders with different rules: some specialise in self-employed files, some in newer income histories, some price for credit history instead of declining on it. The rate on those is usually higher than a bank's best, and that is a real cost that belongs in the conversation honestly. Frequently the right plan is a two-to-three year term with an alternative lender while the history seasons, then a move back to an A-lender at renewal — which, since the straight-switch rules changed, is considerably easier than it used to be.
What I would not do is apply repeatedly to several banks hoping for a different answer. Each application leaves an inquiry, and a file that has been shopped badly is harder to place than one that has not been touched.
Honest answers
Can I get a mortgage as an Uber or rideshare driver in Toronto?
How do lenders calculate commission income?
Will lenders count my bonus?
I've only been self-employed for one year. Can I still buy?
Do my tax write-offs really reduce how much I can borrow?
One bank already declined me. Is it worth trying again?
Related reading
Let's see what your income actually supports
Before anyone pulls your credit. Tell me how you're paid and I'll tell you which lenders read it favourably.
Aleksey Tsoy · Mortgage Agent (Level 1) · Licence #M20001520 · Centum Financial Services LP · Brokerage Licence #13054